Dreams of Africa in Alabama: An Excerpt

My first thought upon picking up this book was, “why haven’t I heard this story before?” Incredibly, the year before the Civil War broke out and more than fifty years after the United States legally abolished the international slave trade, the last shipment of slaves were brought ashore under the cover of night. After the war, these brief-slaves settled in Alabama, founding a settlement still inhabited today by their ancestors. Sylviane A. Diouf, the author of Dreams of Africa in Alabama: The Slave Ship Clotilda and the Story of the Last Africans Brought to America, tells the stories of these West Africans forced to become Americans. Below is an excerpt from the introduction.

On a January night in 2002, a truck backed up to a statue in front of Union Missionary Baptist Church, north of Mobile, Alabama.

One or two people got out, cut through parts of the heavy bronze bust, ripped it from its brick base, and disappeared with their loot. The theft shocked and angered the congregation of pastor A. J. Crawford, Sr. Dreams_of_africaThey had just celebrated the New Year and were preparing to commemorate, the following month, the 130th anniversary of the church. Unlike those of the Virgin Mary or George Washington, this statue was the only one of its kind in the country. The theft struck at the very core of a community that will never have any equivalent in North America. Determined to bring the statue back home, the congregation established a reward fund. In case the bust was not found, the money would be used to cast a new one. The wooden model, carved fifty years earlier, was still in town.

The statue dated back to 1959, when a steel shaft was sunk 100 feet into the earth in front of the church, to commemorate the one hundred years that had passed since the honored man and his companions had set foot on Alabama soil. The bust and the shaft were the symbols of an exceptional tale. In the summer of 1860, less than a year before the outbreak of the Civil War, one hundred and ten young men, women, and children were brought to the Alabama River, north of Mobile. They had just spent six weeks onboard the Clotilda, a fast schooner that had brought them from a world away. They were the last recorded group of captive Africans brought to the United States. Acting for Timothy Meaher, one of the most prominent businessmen in Mobile, Captain William Foster had smuggled them in under cover of night. He had to be careful because decades earlier, on January 1, 1808, the country had abolished the international slave trade. Although tens of thousands of Africans had since landed, the slavers could, in theory, be hanged.

After emancipation, the young people tried to get back home but, unable to do so, they eventually bought land and founded their own town. One of their first major enterprises was the construction of a church. Cudjo Lewis used to ring the bell. One hundred and thirty years later, it was his bronze bust that was stolen from in front of the brick building that had replaced the white clapboard church erected by the men and women of the Clotilda. Cudjo did not belong to a distant past: he lived through World War I, Garvey’s Back to Africa Movement, the Great Migration, and the Great Depression. He died in 1935, the last survivor of the last slave ship.

Cudjo and his companions were part of a tiny group of people born in Africa who witnessed the Civil War, Reconstruction, and the early decades of the twentieth century. To these men and women in their eighties and nineties living in the Jim Crow South, the Middle Passage was still a painfully vivid memory.

They have been all but forgotten today, but those who arrived on the Clotilda have also been denied. Their very existence was disregarded by President James Buchanan, who assured the country that the last slave ship had landed in 1858. W. E. B. Du Bois did not include their voyage in his celebrated book The Suppression of the African Slave-Trade. Warren S. Howard and Hugh Thomas dismissed it as a hoax in their extensive studies of the transatlantic slave trade. And up to the present day, historians and writers tout the Wanderer as the last slave ship to the United States, even though her trip had ended eighteen months earlier than the Clotilda’s.

If the date of their awful journey has been contested or even refuted, more importantly, these Africans’ singular experience has not generated much attention, although they realized more in America than many other groups of immigrants. In the heart of the Deep South, in Plateau and Magazine Point, three miles north of Mobile, they created a small town, the first continuously controlled by blacks, the only one run by Africans. And unlike most post-Reconstruction black settlements, theirs has endured, and is home to hundreds of their descendants, who, in turn, form the only African American community whose members can all identify their African ancestors.

Their story started in West Africa, in the Bight of Benin, a region known, ominously, as the Slave Coast. From small towns in the countries that are today Benin and Nigeria, young adults, teenagers, and children were brought to the coast and locked up in a slave pen, a barracoon, in Ouidah. They had names like Kossola, Abache, Abile, Omolabi, Kupollee, Kêhounco, and Arzuma. They were farmers, fishermen, and traders; they followed Islam, Vodun, or the Orisa. Some had been married, others were too young to have gone through initiation.

The largest group was made up of prisoners of war captured by the Dahomian army during a dawn attack on their town. The rest of their companions were victims of kidnappings or slave raids. They spoke various languages, had lived in different parts of the region, and had different cultures and experiences. But in the barracoon and on the Clotilda, they created a strong, tight-knit community.

The man at the origin of their dreadful journey, Timothy Meaher, owned a plantation and, with his brothers James and Burns, a shipyard and several steamers. As some people in the South were agitating for the reopening of the international slave trade, he had bet a large sum that he could bring “a shipful of niggers” to Mobile and not be caught. His accomplice in the scheme, William Foster, was the builder of the Clotilda. With his schooner disguised as an innocuous cargo ship, Foster sailed to Ouidah in March 1860. There, in a barracoon near the beach, he selected nineteen-year-old Kossola—who became Cudjo Lewis; Kêhounco, a young girl who had been kidnapped; Arzuma, a Muslim woman from the North; and dozens of their companions.

Brought to America and enslaved for almost five years on plantations and steamboats, the young Africans formed a bloc, distinct from everyone else, and ready to stand up forcefully to anybody, white or black, they perceived as a threat. Once free again, they regrouped, and put their energy into finding a way to go back to their families in Africa. When their plan failed, they decided to do the next best thing: recreate Africa where they were. They shared all they had, saved money, built each other’s houses, and solved problems collectively. Despite the hardships, their sense of unity and kinship made their “African Town” a success. Conversing in a common West African language, they ruled their settlement according to their laws. Gumpa, a nobleman from Dahomey who had fallen from grace, was their chief; and they appointed two young men to be their judges.

Within this African enclave, they raised their children, teaching them the languages and values they had learned from their families and brought from the homelands they cherished. Long after their deportation, they still hoped the interviews they gave to curious strangers would somehow get word to their relatives that they were still alive…

…In the summer of 1928, Zora Neale Hurston spent two months gathering detailed information from Cudjo Lewis for a book. He told her about his youth and capture, the Middle Passage, enslavement, and life in African Town. Hurston finished the last draft of her manuscript, titled Barracoon, in April 1931. She had produced an invaluable document on the lives of a group of people with a unique experience in American history. She sent it to publishers, but it never found a taker, and has still not been published.

From what Abache, Cudjo, and the others said to outsiders and to their own children and grandchildren, from court documents, and from photographs, a clear enough picture of their lives, with a few shady spots, has emerged. Very little of the experience of Africans deported to and enslaved in the West has come to light, and it has generally been through the autobiographies or biographies of a handful of successful men such as Olaudah Equiano, Ottobah Cugoano, or Venture Smith. Next to nothing is known about the lives and aspirations of ordinary people, particularly of women. But precious information can be found in the Clotilda Africans’ own words, those of the Americans who met them or lived among them, and the words of their descendants…

…Their legacy has endured. Thousands of their descendants now reside all over the country, but know that African Town, now called Africatown, is their homeplace. Many, in the fifth generation, still live on the land their ancestors bought and developed, their sturdy houses having replaced the founders’ wooden homes. But what has not changed is their sense of being “different” and their determination to preserve a peculiar heritage…

They had the same dream as twelve and a half million Africans sent against their will to the Americas: returning home to their families. Like almost all of them, they did not realize it. But they tried to recreate their own Africa on the soil of Alabama.

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    Comments

  1. Leroy Jacobs said :

    Mar 30, 2007

    Very good information!!

  2. tootsie said :

    Apr 7, 2007

    Amazing story;testament of people coming together

  3. Gregory Henry said :

    Apr 9, 2007

    I have been interested in this area and the Clotilda story for years. I grew up in Plateau, but now live in San Jose, California. How can I get a copy of Ms. Diouf’s book.

  4. Carletta Singleton said :

    Apr 10, 2007

    I was born and raised in Plateau, AL. My family’s homestead still exist there today.
    As a child I had heard about Cudjo Lewis and my father’s family is a member of the Union Baptist Church. Some still attend there today.
    I have a neice, who is doing her Master’s Research in the Art of Dance at New York University. It is entiled “Red Clay” from the red clay dirt in Plateau. She has just learned that our sirname, Singleton is listed on the birth certificate of Cudjo Lewis. How wonderful is that? As part of final master research, she will chorograph a dance interpeting her research.
    We will hold our 8th Biannual Singleton Family Reunion in Mobile, AL this summer.

  5. Pablo Sierra said :

    Apr 11, 2007

    Im originally from the Mobile area now living in Atlanta Ga.I grew up in near by Pricard Alabama,I rememeber as a kid walking with friends over to the Plateau park to go swiming at the recreation center pool and watching the local baseball games,the Plateau to me has always been a since of community,then when I was young and still to this day,I always felt a since of home in the Plateau Africatown and now I know why.I enjoyed the information posted.

  6. Vershawn Sanders said :

    Apr 29, 2007

    Hello,
    I was also born in Plateau and I am the niece of Carletta Singleton. I am presenting a solo performance on my research and connection to the Red Earth of Plateau. My home. The home of my ancestors. My research still continues but this solo will deal with what information I have found thus far. So if you are in New York City the weekend of May 16th -18th come and see the performance. It is a part of a concert entitled Exit Only by myslef and my fellow graduate students. It will take place at Tisch School of the Arts, 111 Second Ave., between 6th and 7th Street. THe performance is free and it stars all three nights at 8pm. Hope you can make it!! My research continues and I will post what ever information I find about the Singleton Family!!

  7. Gladys McGee Bonner said :

    Jul 24, 2007

    I was born and raised in Plateau. In fact some of my family still resides there. I attended MCTS and graduated from Vigor High School. I attended Union Missionary Baptist Church and still have ties there although I now reside in Los Angeles, Ca.
    I am proud of my heritage and the fact that I come from a place with deep roots and family values. I love our history and I am always looking for anything that has to do with Plateau, having learned from a very young age about Cudjo Lewis and knowing his family members that were a part of our Church during my childhood days.

  8. Barbara Crenshaw Sellers said :

    Aug 27, 2007

    This information is very exhilarating and gratifying to me, because in this experience these families found optimism in their lives and persevered.

  9. Reggie Lee said :

    Aug 29, 2007

    I just finished the book and felt like I relived some of what they experienced. I was born in Birmingham, AL but recently stopped by Africatown to walk the grounds Cudjo Lewis and Peter Lee walked as strangers in a new land. I also took some recent pictures and would be glad to share if anyone is interested.

  10. Dazerine Ingram said :

    Nov 16, 2007

    Really Interestng.Beautiful that they came together as A group, to make the best Of life in Alabama.I must get the book,I read the Excert. I am A native Of Birmingham,Alabama When I visit there again I much check it out.

  11. Torrais Singleton Glenn said :

    Dec 12, 2007

    I grew up in Mobile and can remember my familt always telling us about Mr. Cudjo Lewis. How great a Story to remember and honor him by.

  12. Suzy M. Harris said :

    Jan 19, 2008

    I am 37-years-old and I live with my 16 year old daughter in Greensboro, NC. I was raised in Cleveland, Ohio but was born in Plateau. It is stated on my Birth Certificate. A lot of my family is in Happy Hill.

    I would definately like to know more about the life of my Grandma Priscilla “Soot” Harris/Reed of Mobile, AL. born @ 1899 or 1900 deceased in May 1995 in Mobile, AL.

  13. Vernetta Peters Henson said :

    Feb 15, 2008

    I am 59 years old and a direct descendant of Cudjo Lewis. My Second Great Grandfather, Polee Allen, was reported to be a brother of Cudjo Lewis. I have heard many stories from my Grandmother, Mrs. Ora A. Floyd, about the values and sense of unity and perserverance taught to her by her parents and grandparents and about the values of the old country. Their strong faith in God helped them to become citizen of worth and enabled them to produce children of the same caliber and character. I am pleased to have been reard by my grandparents (Mr. & Mrs. Nathan D. Floyd). They taught me lessons that I hold dear to my heart and I will pass everything that they taught me on to my children and grandchildren and will encourage them to do the same. I also was surrounded by many extended family members. (aunts, uncles, great aunts and great uncles.)

  14. Vernetta Peters Henson said :

    Feb 15, 2008

    I live in the Mobile area and I was married at the Union Missionary Baptist church where I am still a member. The whole worship experience is phenomenal as well as unique.

  15. Tametra Allen said :

    May 8, 2008

    Hello all, I am a great-grandaughter of Polee Allen. My grandfather was Henderson Allen and my father is Alister Allen. I too was told that Cudjoe Lewis and Polee Allen were brothers.

    I am interested in learning more about our family…I have learned a lot from both my dad and from research on the internet. We plan to read the book published as soon as we can find a copy.

    My father remembers a lot but his father, Henderson, passed away when he was only 14 years old. He has fond memories of growing up in Alabama, he was raised in Union Missionary Baptist Church, memories of his uncle Clarence and Aunt Eva, some of his grandfather, Polee Allen’s children.

    I and my father are interested in finding out much more, we live in California.

    Hoping to reade more comments from family members.

    Sincerely, Tametra

  16. Tametra Allen said :

    May 14, 2008

    We’ve found the book! My dad got it from the library and OMG, I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw the picture of Polee Allen, my father, who is his grandson, resembles him very much. My father was also amazed. I have now ordered my own copy and waiting for it to be delivered next week. I can’t wait to began reading and reliving our history.

    Hope to hear from family members soon.

    Tametra Allen

  17. catherine benjamin bacon said :

    May 31, 2008

    i have just finish reading this information on mr, cudjo lewis i lived in plateau as a child ,i heard of him but not as much as iam reading now, but i will get the book, as soon as i can ,thanks for the information. catherine b. bocon, ft, lauderdale fl.

  18. Kimberly Harris said :

    Jun 10, 2008

    “Wow” I plan to read the book soon, I was also born a raised in Mobile,Alabama and raised in Plateau. I lived on Front street near Mr. Hubbard store. As a child I attended Whitley Elementary School and County Middle School. I plan to visit Mobile soon. Great information.

  19. Kimberly Harris said :

    Jun 10, 2008

    Reggie Lee may I please view your Pictures?

    Thanks!!

  20. cleon jones jr said :

    Jun 20, 2008

    Hello, I am Cleon Jones,Jr. of the Jones, Marshall,Jacobs and Lee family. My father is Cleon Jones, Sr. who played for the New York Mets. We are decendants of Peter Lee,Gumpa. My father met Sylvianne A. Diouf,author of Dreams of Africa in Ala., and spent time with her when she visited Plateau. I live in ATL,GA, but spend time in Mobile to help bring nat’l attension to AfricanTown & volunteer with the AfricaTown youth.

  21. LeAnne Roberts said :

    Jul 19, 2008

    Cleon,

    I am not sure if you will get this message, but I believe we may be related. Since our family reunions have stopped, I am not aware of my many relatives from Mobile. I am of the Bracy & Lee family, being the great-great-granddaughter of Peter Lee and the great-granddaughter of Sidney Lee (to my knowledge). Some of my cousins are Marshalls and the Jones family sounds very familiar. I am very interested in receiving further information about Africatown. I will keep checking this board in case you reply. Thank you!

  22. Shirley Phelps-Pollard said :

    Aug 12, 2008

    My fathers family the Edwards on Richardson st has been in Plateau,Al for over 85 years.I have tried to visit and learn more about Africatown and never get close to learning if there is a tie to our family there. I have gone the the Africatown welcome center many times and its never open,I don’t know where else to go.I just leave there and go over to the Plateau cemetary to honor my Grandmother,who we called Mama Note and my father who is named Ellis Edwards.I feel such a strong connection with Plateau and love coming there 2/3 times ayear.My mother was born and raised in Prichard and Whistler,Al.she attended MCTS,some of her family still reside in those areas.I am trying to learn as much as possible about the historical significance of Plateau with Africatown.I am going to try and get the book to read more on the history of Africatown.I was just in Mobile/Plateau from a reunion that was held in Birmingham,Al.there was a book signing of Dr.Natalie Robertson,about the ship”Clotilda” at the Museum of Mobile on Royal
    st August 7th 2008,we were leaving that morning and didn’t get a chance to attend this book signing.I am going to get her book and read it also.

  23. vernetta peters henson said :

    Aug 19, 2008

    My name is Vernetta Peters Henson, a descendant of Polee Allen. I still attend Union Missionary Baptist Church and would like to talk to each one who writes in on this website. I was at the book signing with Dr. Robertson and am in touch with her on occasion.
    My home phone is 251-478-4478. I remain open to re-uniting with all of the descendants and fellowshiping with them.

  24. Thomas Summerlin said :

    Aug 19, 2008

    Shirley Phelps-Pollard,

    My name is Thomas Summerlin, and I am a fifth generational member of the Summerlin-Richardson Family still residing in Plateau, Al. It was spoken to me by my grandmother (Geneva Richardson-Summerlin) that Miss Note was a dear friend of hers, and by my father (Thomas “T.J.” Summerlin) that Ellis Edwards was one of his lifelong friends. I was too young to personaliy remember Miss Note,and only vaguely remember Mr. Ellis Edwards. Unfortunately, Both my parents past away resently, but if there is anything else I can help you with about Plateau, its history, and/or any other information, please let me know.

    Plateau is at an exciting point in its history, which is defining its future. Many of our residents are meeting and getting together to ensure that the community and its history will continue. hopefully those of you how have moved away will one day return to continue the legacy set before us. I moved away when I was young because I wanted to see the world, but a sense of purpose kept calling me back everytime I visited Plateau. I always thought, If not me, then who! So now I am committed to living here in Plateau, and trying to make it a better place.

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